(This is actually a business trip, and unfortunately, Melinda could not join me.) From Basel, Naples is a short 2 hour flight; the arrival of which might be compared to Tijuana. The exceptions to this comparison are a) all EU people are waived through customs, and I had to be scrutinized (ok, maybe not a valid exception), b) I did not see any donkey’s painted like zebras, and c) I have never been to Tijuana, nor do I plan to. I prayed for my luggage to arrive, and it did. Sadly, there were other people who where attending the same meeting, who were not so lucky. With bags in hand, my current boss and I made our way to the taxi’s. Everything I have heard (and what you are about to) regarding the taxi drivers in Naples is completely true. The fixed rate of 20 Euro, from airport to all beach front hotels, was quickly and explicitly reestablished at a fixed rate of 35 Euro. Other people who I later heard from were offered 22, 25, 27, and even 30 Euro. So actually the fix price, isn’t, it varies based on the number of people in the car, the number of bags you have, how well dressed you are, the type of hotel you are going to, and like our taxi driver pointed out, the fact that he is able to avoid/drive around/negotiate/or make traffic disappear. Which brings me to my next point; the driving. The lines that are painted on the highways and streets are strictly for artistic purposes only. The lines hold no legal delineation between right and wrong, and if anything, they only indicate the general direction by which one should/could/or might travel down (or up) any given street that the lines may appear on. As we traveled to the hotel, about a 35 minute drive, our driver, who did not/or pretended not to speak English (or German), never stayed in the lanes, flashed his lights at (while weaving) any car in front of him, and would begin to change lanes when the hood of the taxi passed the hood of the car next to us (not the entire car!!!). Once off the expressway, we begin to dodge mopeds, and make right turns from the left lane cutting off buses and trams. At stop lights the taxi driver would inch his way around cars, sometimes in the on-coming traffic lane, and sometimes in the right turn lane, only to cut everyone off just before the light changed. Finally, we made it to the hotel right across the street from Castel dell'Ovo, a rather large 5th century castle that had since been upgraded in the 15th century, then turned monastery, and now a haven for newly weds to get there picture in front of. We saw at least one wedding party per day from Tuesday through Saturday! After, we checked in and met up with our other work colleagues; four of us went for a walk around old Naples. The picture below was taken just before we collectively wandered around the narrow alleyways with mopeds, and Fiats whizzing by. In the narrow alleys we quickly realized that things are a little different in Naples. Xerox, perhaps, does not have a very large market share, and we found several print shops that were still using Heidelberg printing presses, circa WWII. Additionally, there were several, small eateries, typically with about 5-6 guys out front, that easily looked like they could put a hit out on someone. I would have liked to take a picture of them, but something tells me it would not have made it in the blog, or I would not be writing it right now. Also, it is perfectly acceptable to place cardboard boxes on top of hot rotisserie ovens. As we made our way back to the hotel, I realized that Darwin could have saved himself a trip around the world, because “survival of the fittest” is a daily part of life. I would challenge anyone to voice there opinion after trying to cross the street in Naples. Seriously, when you push the button to cross the street, if you do not start to cross when indicated, the cars keep driving (through the red light). If you do not show your intention to cross, the light becomes irrelavant! On the first day of the meeting, on of the local hosts of the event stood up and showed a short movie on the sights and sounds of Naples. He finished with a quote and said, “we have a saying here in Naples… See Naples, then Die.” The context is that once you see Naples, you have seen it all, and there really is nothing else to see in life. Unfortunately, I thought that this meant you would die in a taxi accident, a mob hit, a mugging, or as collateral damage. Perhaps this was not the best way to start of the trip. This was somewhat verified by our local Napoli contingent as we had asked him if he was worried about Mt. Vesuvius becoming reactivated. He shrugged it off and said, “if Mt. Vesuvio goes, then Naples will go to. We will all go too, so don’t worry.” Anyway, I could bore you with the descriptions of the meeting, but everyone knows what I do, and since my blog is about our relocation and experiences while we are here, I feel like work will not be mentioned other than the fact that most of the time this trip consisted of 8 to 12 hours per day of lectures, followed by dinner meetings, followed by late night bar meetings. I don’t think I fell asleep before midnight on any given night. After a long week, several of my colleagues from the US and I managed to score a seat on the bus that was taking the distinguished meeting guests to Pompei followed by dinner somewhere on the beach in a town called Vico Equense. Below are some pictures from the trip. Pompei you have probably heard about. We had a tour guide, which was good on one hand, but on the other we only had two hours, and the route was somewhat fixed and the area is massive. To date, they have only uncovered 2/5 of the entire site. In the pictures below, Mt. Vesuvius used to be twice as high, and when it blew up, most of it landed on Pompei and the surrounding towns, covering it with 20+ feet of ash and debris, and relocating the coastline 2 kilometers away. This happened around 79 BC. While walking around Pompei, you see a highly organized city (of about 20,000 people) with straight grid like streets, running water using gravity piping from the base of mountains over 8 kilometers away. I wondered if the people from Naples could reflect upon this and learn something regarding order (no offense). Anyway, it was quite impressive to think that over 2000 years ago, there where people hanging out doing pretty much the same things that we are doing today. By the way, there were wild dogs everywhere. The next day, the meeting ended early, and before my flight I managed to go to the museum that had a lot of the Pompei artifacts. After I got in, I quickly found out that part of the museum was closed. My final note is that on the way back to the airport, I managed to establish the fixed rate cab ride up front. But then the guy set the meter, and was talking to his friends on the street. So I stared at him a few times, because English did not work here, even though I know “20 Euro” is a direct translation. Finally, after thumbing through the pricing card so he could see me, he confirmed the fixed rate by turning off the meter.
The Bay of Napoli
Inside the Castel dell'Ovo
More Castel dell'Ovo
Typical alleyway in old Naples
THE Castel dell'Ovo
Sunset
Pompei
Pompei
More collums...
Careful, Kujo bites...
Inside the bath house
Opposite the vomitorium
Ahhh, Fresco
Small Street
Ancient Pot Holes
More Collums near the Amphitheater
Collum Details
Near the main gate of Pompei
Pompei with Mt. Vesuvius in the distance
A view from the bus, I swear this could be Pasadena...
Where we eat dinner (off to the left)
How often do you get a bird in mid flight with the sunset!!!
Nice!
Inside the Museum, formerly a palace...
AVÉ!
Info about an exhibit...
Statue
Old Fortress near the port. It looks like this was stormed at one point,
notice the bend iron door at the entrance...